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Official P&b Cycling Thread


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2 hours ago, the snudge said:

Double puncture and a slightly buckled front wheel last week on the road bike. Having to use the MTB while I'm waiting on new wheels arriving. It's like cycling a tank. Total withdrawals! 

Buckled wheels can be fixed with a bit of patience, a spoke key and a pencil, there will be some videos on YouTube.  

If you take the tyre, tube and protective band off you could use a screwdriver instead of a spoke key.

 

 

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2 hours ago, bennett said:

Buckled wheels can be fixed with a bit of patience, a spoke key and a pencil, there will be some videos on YouTube.  

If you take the tyre, tube and protective band off you could use a screwdriver instead of a spoke key.

 

 

Cheers for that. I've got a spoke key. To be fair the wheels are 6 years old and done a fair bit. No harm in giving it go and keep them as back ups. 

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Big ride today (Kenneth Williams incoming).  118km (73 miles), 1666m  of climb.  For those that cycle north of Glasgow, I did Dukes, Top of the World from Arnprior, Crow, then cheeky Tak to finish.  Never before has the 18% gradient on Tak felt so hard, I was totally done.
Restorative barbecue tonight though. 
Tak's a b*gger of a climb. [emoji19]
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I did 14 miles tonight. I’m still shite at trying to get up inclines on the road. Had to push it up one (I’m only 12 stone so it’s not due to fatness 😂). Another thing I  noticed yesterday and today, once I’m home from a cycle a headache starts almost immediately. No idea why 

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21 minutes ago, Thereisalight.. said:

I did 14 miles tonight. I’m still shite at trying to get up inclines on the road. Had to push it up one (I’m only 12 stone so it’s not due to fatness 😂). Another thing I  noticed yesterday and today, once I’m home from a cycle a headache starts almost immediately. No idea why 

1) It's a power/weight thing. Once you develop some more muscle it gets easier.

2) Check your blood pressure

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On 02/06/2020 at 18:55, die hard doonhamer said:

Just check your tyres every so often (a simple pinch test is fine), if they feel soft then inflate them.

Few boys at work are big into cycling and they brought it up that you don't want the tyres to be maxed out, I'd thought that having them at max pump would be best but apparently that's not the most efficient. Bought a road bike earlier in the week, think I need to make a few adjustments still. 

IMG_20200602_111004.thumb.jpg.f3308417fd61b78bb3d6d9ef755fe0d8.jpg

On my first ride I was loving the first 10k until it became apparent I had been far, far, far to light on tightening up the cleat, had to phone up the wife to pick me up, she was chuffed. 

Screenshot_20200603_233305.thumb.jpg.2f3591b648061b8c66337dcd57d90bb4.jpg

On my first completed ride and my fitness isn't once it once was, was blowing out on a few of the hills. 

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I'd have thought that higher tyre pressure would've given you less resistance to the road and less chance of punctures, especially pinch punctures.  Lower tyre pressure should surely add to wear and tear with more tyre hitting the road.

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Road bikes have drop down handle bars (they used to be called racers) are more efficient for distance and speed but won't handle rougher surfaces. 

Mtbs have a flat handlebars, chunkier tyres, usually have suspension but require more effort to pedal. 

You also have hybrids which use bits of both Mtbs and road bikes.

A lot of roads are in a bad way, I use a rigid hybrid and feel lump and bump.

 

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30 minutes ago, Thereisalight.. said:

I’ve never tried a road bike, can anyone explain the differences between that and a bog standard MTB. I go on main roads near where I live and I feel every single bump in the road and it’s quite “juddery”, is it the same on a road bike? 

Depends where you want to cycle and road conditions. If you're off trekking in parks and rough terrain then a mountain bike would be ideal. If it's for commuting to work not too far then a hybrid (mixture of both mtb and road) would probably do. If you want to get out on the road and tackle some lengthier routes then a road bike all the way. I love  the speed on the road bike. The road bikes are lighter and tyres thinner. I only really use the MTB for sticking the wee yin in the child seat or pulling her in the trailer. If you're thinking of getting either then chat to the folk in the local bike shop. They're usually quite good, the Halfords in Dumbarton are decent and also magic cycles in Bowling. 

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8 hours ago, Thereisalight.. said:

I’ve never tried a road bike, can anyone explain the differences between that and a bog standard MTB. I go on main roads near where I live and I feel every single bump in the road and it’s quite “juddery”, is it the same on a road bike? 

You'll feel the bumps and vibration more on a road bike. However, when you're on reasonable roads it can absolutely fly. Lighter, faster and magical when you're swishing along with the wind at your back. 

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Road bikes have also sub-divided into various genres over recent years. Endurance road bikes are becoming more popular - they have a slightly more relaxed frame geometry than race/aero bikes, wider types (up to 32mm is quite common now) and often feature a few gimmicks to minimise the feedback from rough road surfaces. I picked up a Giant Defy Advanced 2 (Endurance) bike last December and the difference in comfort levels from the old B'Twin Ultra AF is night and day. 

If you're doing a mix of road and decently surfaced off-road paths then a gravel bike might be a solution - it's essentially a road bike with a few mods to make off-road riding much more enjoyable with wider tyres, some form of suspension, mods to the drivetrain to prevent chain slip when on rougher ground etc. 

If you're doing rougher ground than that, then you'll probably want an MTB. A hardtail will be enough unless you plan on doing technical downhill stuff. 

As for tyre pressures, I always thought maxing out tyre pressure would be better and faster and on perfectly smooth roads it's fine. On less smooth roads, not so much. Tyres with lower inflation pressures will contact more of the surface of a rougher road, but this gives a smoother more efficient ride. I always felt that with max inflated tyres on shitty roads the bike felt like it was bouncing a bit and a real momentum-killer. If you run tubeless tyres you can get away with much lower pressures, thought tubeless have both positive and negative aspects. 

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4 hours ago, Day of the Lords said:

Road bikes have also sub-divided into various genres over recent years. Endurance road bikes are becoming more popular - they have a slightly more relaxed frame geometry than race/aero bikes, wider types (up to 32mm is quite common now) and often feature a few gimmicks to minimise the feedback from rough road surfaces. I picked up a Giant Defy Advanced 2 (Endurance) bike last December and the difference in comfort levels from the old B'Twin Ultra AF is night and day. 

If you're doing a mix of road and decently surfaced off-road paths then a gravel bike might be a solution - it's essentially a road bike with a few mods to make off-road riding much more enjoyable with wider tyres, some form of suspension, mods to the drivetrain to prevent chain slip when on rougher ground etc. 

If you're doing rougher ground than that, then you'll probably want an MTB. A hardtail will be enough unless you plan on doing technical downhill stuff. 

As for tyre pressures, I always thought maxing out tyre pressure would be better and faster and on perfectly smooth roads it's fine. On less smooth roads, not so much. Tyres with lower inflation pressures will contact more of the surface of a rougher road, but this gives a smoother more efficient ride. I always felt that with max inflated tyres on shitty roads the bike felt like it was bouncing a bit and a real momentum-killer. If you run tubeless tyres you can get away with much lower pressures, thought tubeless have both positive and negative aspects. 

Yeah the guy who serviced the bike inflated the tyres to their max and on the roads it’s really bouncy. I’m paranoid I’m going to get a puncture as the roads here aren’t exactly smooth and they’re full of pot holes or loose stones. I feel I can’t enjoy the cycle fully because of worry 

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No point worrying, you're going to get a puncture at some point. Make sure you carry a spare tube. If its still bothering you look at getting a tubeless set up and if you get a puncture it'll repair itself and chances are you wont even notice.

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A wee bag on your bike with a spare tube or self adhesive patches plus tyre levers, spanners if not QR. With a spare tube you can do a quick repair and get on your way again, then fix the original tube once you get home.

 

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When do you guys tend to do your big run outs and how many km do you average a week? I've just returned to work from Furlough and now wondering when is best to fit in my rides. Whilst I was off I was able to go out for anything between an hour to 3 hours, last week I managed 255km. However being back at work and going home to a young family is not going to help me much! Still wanting to try and average 150km to 200km a week without pissing off the boss.

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Also curious to see what bikes people have? I'm currently still jumping about in a 300 quid Carrera Subway One rigid Hybrid which has been great for me, got it serviced yesterday so I'm in no rush to change it yet but I'll likely be giving it to my son at some point and get myself something better. Only last week I done a 55km run out in it in 1h 59mins and 59secs! average speed of 27.5km so I get some good speed out of it but I'm hoping that something a bit lighter with a better gear ratio might let me get some higher speeds.

Talking of average speeds, according to Strava I've clocked the fastest time between Bonnybridge lifting bridge and the Kelpies this year 😂

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14 hours ago, bennett said:

I'd have thought that higher tyre pressure would've given you less resistance to the road and less chance of punctures, especially pinch punctures.  Lower tyre pressure should surely add to wear and tear with more tyre hitting the road.

Yeah I'm not saying to have them flat, but if you have them maxed out you're not at the most efficient. If we're going off the presumption that we're all cycling on roads here the surface isn't perfectly flat if you're maxing out your tyre pressure you're going to be exerting allot of energy upwards which is why it feels juddery, if you think about it though if your bike tyre is bouncing all over the shop your not getting the maximum efficiency going forward... 

 

Give it a Google matey, there's loads of articles in it. 

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