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2 hours ago, alta-pete said:

@Nkomo-A-Gogo because it’s Friday pm it intrigued me. 

Mixing imperial and metric so I might be slightly out but if you’ve an 8mx5m roof and the snow is 4in deep, it seems the weight is 10st or thereabouts. If you can walk on it I’d say you’ve no issue…

 

10st sounds light!

Area is 7.5m x 5m. if 4 inches is 10cm there would be 3.75 cubic metres and Internet says 160kg per cubic metre totalling 600 kg.

But its obviously spread out. Not as heavy as I thought though. Should be fine!

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13 hours ago, Nkomo-A-Gogo said:

10st sounds light!

Area is 7.5m x 5m. if 4 inches is 10cm there would be 3.75 cubic metres and Internet says 160kg per cubic metre totalling 600 kg.

But its obviously spread out. Not as heavy as I thought though. Should be fine!

And don't put salt on it - it may or may not damage the felt but won't do the wooden supports and fasteners any good.  

P.S. Looks great.  We wanted to build a similar (but much smaller) room in our garden but the septic tank placement put paid to that idea.  

Edited by hk blues
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On 28/10/2022 at 12:15, Nkomo-A-Gogo said:

10st sounds light!

Area is 7.5m x 5m. if 4 inches is 10cm there would be 3.75 cubic metres and Internet says 160kg per cubic metre totalling 600 kg.

But its obviously spread out. Not as heavy as I thought though. Should be fine!

Call me cynical, but if a really heavy snow was forecast, could you not tack some two foot wide strips of heavy mil plastic on the roof, slightly overlapping…then, after it’s snowed enough to worry you, run out, untack the ends and pull them down from the low side? Heck, there’s even masking paper that is designed to work around water based paints and such and comes in 18 inch by 120 foot rolls. That would likely slide off too, and if it’s three days in 20 years that worried you…

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Shed looks fantastic. Standard design load for snow or maintenance is 600kg per square metre. Assuming 60cm spacing your 9x2 joists will be fine for standard snow loading. The only issue would be if there's a chance of snow drift building up. Is the roof within a metre of a taller fence or similar?

I wouldn't worry about the walls if they're built from any reasonable size of stud (3 x 2 minimum). Critical design will be for wind on the wall and you've already said it was fine for some high winds.

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On 12/12/2021 at 17:16, Thorongil said:

I’ve got planning permission for this in my garden. Awaiting a structural package for a building warrant. As part of it there are solar panels and going to change the heating for the house to Air Source. 

The upstairs is to be my office/mancave. I cannot wait. I am desperate to have it built by September so I can watch the new Tolkien Amazon series in it, but I’m a bit worried about what material costs are like just now. 
 

 

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How is this going - did you get it in in time?

On 24/05/2022 at 19:37, Nkomo-A-Gogo said:

 

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That looks terrific mate. No doubt saved thousands on getting people in, too .

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Any opinions on a North-West facing plot.

Currently looking at a house with a plot in that direction.

Only ever had South or West facing. Much more keen on the West over the South mind you…

Don’t mind shade planting at all, but would like a small area of Mediterranean type plants, rosemary, lavender, pelargoniums, olive trees etc at a seated spot.

It it a total loss being NW or workable given the bit of a westerly direction?

Edited by Abdul_Latif
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1 hour ago, Abdul_Latif said:

Any opinions on a North-West facing plot.

Currently looking at a house with a plot in that direction.

Only ever had South or West facing. Much more keen on the West over the South mind you…

Don’t mind shade planting at all, but would like a small area of Mediterranean type plants, rosemary, lavender, pelargoniums, olive trees etc at a seated spot.

It it a total loss being NW or workable given the bit of a westerly direction?

Slabs.

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1 hour ago, Abdul_Latif said:

Any opinions on a North-West facing plot.

Currently looking at a house with a plot in that direction.

Only ever had South or West facing. Much more keen on the West over the South mind you…

Don’t mind shade planting at all, but would like a small area of Mediterranean type plants, rosemary, lavender, pelargoniums, olive trees etc at a seated spot.

It it a total loss being NW or workable given the bit of a westerly direction?

It's very workable, most of the herbie / Mediterranean plants would probably be ok, wouldnt say they'd thrive, but they'd do alright as long as the soil isn't too wet over winter. When planting, dig a good bit deeper than required and put a few scoops of gravel to allow the water to drain past the roots. 

The olive trees and pelargoniums id be sticking in a pot and bringing indoors over winter.

Failing that, 

11 minutes ago, Sergeant Wilson said:

Slabs.

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1 hour ago, Abdul_Latif said:

Any opinions on a North-West facing plot.

Currently looking at a house with a plot in that direction.

Only ever had South or West facing. Much more keen on the West over the South mind you…

Don’t mind shade planting at all, but would like a small area of Mediterranean type plants, rosemary, lavender, pelargoniums, olive trees etc at a seated spot.

It it a total loss being NW or workable given the bit of a westerly direction?

There’s also the question of the boundary height…a nice, low hedge vs huge cypress wall will significantly impact your ability to utilize the low angle sun for some of the year.

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9 minutes ago, TxRover said:

There’s also the question of the boundary height…a nice, low hedge vs huge cypress wall will significantly impact your ability to utilize the low angle sun for some of the year.

Best advice I can give is don't plant a boundary hedge.

Next best is to plant either a privet, griselinia or beech hedge. Never Leyland or cypress. Arsehole hedges.

Then don't let it get over 6 - 8 foot or its a c**t to cut.

Next best after that is leave it till the neighbours get fucked off and cut it for you.

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49 minutes ago, mishtergrolsch said:

It's very workable, most of the herbie / Mediterranean plants would probably be ok, wouldnt say they'd thrive, but they'd do alright as long as the soil isn't too wet over winter. When planting, dig a good bit deeper than required and put a few scoops of gravel to allow the water to drain past the roots. 

The olive trees and pelargoniums id be sticking in a pot and bringing indoors over winter.

 Cheers for the tips. The olive trees I intend to be in raised beds so hopefully will still catch a bit of light even in the winter. Pelargoniums I’ll just treat as annual bedding.

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30 minutes ago, TxRover said:

There’s also the question of the boundary height…a nice, low hedge vs huge cypress wall will significantly impact your ability to utilize the low angle sun for some of the year.

Luckily no shadow from other houses and just 1.8M boundary fences.

Edited by Abdul_Latif
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13 minutes ago, Abdul_Latif said:

 Cheers for the tips. The olive trees I intend to be in raised beds so hopefully will still catch a bit of light even in the winter. Pelargoniums I’ll just treat as annual bedding.

I'd still advise having gravel / good drainage under the olives even though they're in a raised bed. You'd maybe need to water in dry spells over summer but they'll cope better in winter.

Good shout with the Pelargoniums as bedding.

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32 minutes ago, Abdul_Latif said:

 Cheers for the tips. The olive trees I intend to be in raised beds so hopefully will still catch a bit of light even in the winter. Pelargoniums I’ll just treat as annual bedding.

It’s also an almost ideal time to visit the potential purchase in the afternoon to see where you do get some sun and such. Might even be worth a few snaps, just so you know where a couple of trees could be planted in a raised bed to catch the most sun possible.

Edited to add: Drip irrigation for those raised bed trees would be ideal, less waste and water right where it gets used best.

Edited by TxRover
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32 minutes ago, TxRover said:

It’s also an almost ideal time to visit the potential purchase in the afternoon to see where you do get some sun and such. Might even be worth a few snaps, just so you know where a couple of trees could be planted in a raised bed to catch the most sun possible.

Edited to add: Drip irrigation for those raised bed trees would be ideal, less waste and water right where it gets used best.

And plant deciduous trees as when the light goes they drop their leaves anyway so no problems with lack of light.

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On 30/10/2022 at 04:27, TxRover said:

Call me cynical, but if a really heavy snow was forecast, could you not tack some two foot wide strips of heavy mil plastic on the roof, slightly overlapping…then, after it’s snowed enough to worry you, run out, untack the ends and pull them down from the low side? Heck, there’s even masking paper that is designed to work around water based paints and such and comes in 18 inch by 120 foot rolls. That would likely slide off too, and if it’s three days in 20 years that worried you…

In theory it's fine but who would want to be out in a snowstorm pulling sheets of plastic off a roof - no doubt knocking yourself out when a pile of snow hit you on the way down!  And, who'd want to be tacking it to the roof in the 1st place?  And having to do it several times in the winter?

I saw someone doing something with plastic sheeting a little similar (but not really) to what you describe - it involved shooting the plastic sheets under the snow with some kind of tool and then pulling them down and brining the snow with it.  It looked effective and had the advantage of being able to be done after a snowfall.

There are numerous tools available for removing snow from a roof that would be more practical than plastic sheeting ideas though.  

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3 minutes ago, hk blues said:

In theory it's fine but who would want to be out in a snowstorm pulling sheets of plastic off a roof - no doubt knocking yourself out when a pile of snow hit you on the way down!  And, who'd want to be tacking it to the roof in the 1st place?  And having to do it several times in the winter?

I saw someone doing something with plastic sheeting a little similar (but not really) to what you describe - it involved shooting the plastic sheets under the snow with some kind of tool and then pulling them down and brining the snow with it.  It looked effective and had the advantage of being able to be done after a snowfall.

There are numerous tools available for removing snow from a roof that would be more practical than plastic sheeting ideas though.  

Oh, absolutely, but for a three times in 20 years go, seems a reasonable emergency plan. The same applies to removal tools, except then you have to be on the roof,, with the snow load, during the blizzard.

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2 minutes ago, TxRover said:

Oh, absolutely, but for a three times in 20 years go, seems a reasonable emergency plan. The same applies to removal tools, except then you have to be on the roof,, with the snow load, during the blizzard.

The one I saw was basically a very long pole with a square-shaped shovel on the end with a hollow central area and you simply extended the pole to the ridge and pulled the snow down from the ground.  No need to climb on ladders or the roof itself.

 

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