Car advice

[Granny Danger]

17 minutes ago, Stellaboz said:

Not true. A horn is needed to warn other users that you are there, for example on a blind, narrow corner where you might have to use the whole road. 

Did you really think I was being serious?

[Stellaboz]

5 minutes ago, Granny Danger said:

Did you really think I was being serious?

No but I'm in that kind of mood. 

[Granny Danger]

7 minutes ago, Stellaboz said:

No but I'm in that kind of mood. 

Fair enough I have days weeks lifetimes like that myself.

[RH33]

Home with the horn!

[tree house tam]

On 24/05/2020 at 07:17, philpy said:

Or the championship.  Dismantle it,  then let Ann budge try and rebuild it... 

The championship is officially a seaside league with Arbroath, Ayr and Morton* in it. That's without even considering Dundee, Inverness, Raith** etc

 

* you're on the west coast and virtually in the Atlantic you moaning minks.

** I don't even know if you're in the championship, couldn't really give a f**k either tbh.

[Gaz FFC]

Recently bought a Juke and today I got an alert that my maps need updating and to contact Nissan.

How much am I likely to be robbed here?

For the record if it's a lot I've never used the fucker in 6 months and they can bolt

[Forest_Fifer]

Currently raging. Bought an 18 plate Octavia a year ago from a main dealer, just had it serviced ( not at the same dealer) checked it when I got back and found what looked like flaking clear lacquer above one door. Took it back, the service manager took one look and said it has had rear quarter accident damage. He could see overspray on the rear door and on the plastic around the wheel well, a slight bump at the top of the wheel arch, paint transfer on the door seal ( looks like they shut the door when it was still wet) replaced chip protector film, etc.

Now waiting for a call back from the original dealer who will no doubt say that they didnt know anything about it guv, sorry mate, not our issue, etc.

[RandomGuy.]

On 17/05/2020 at 22:10, ICTJohnboy said:

Bringing back memories of some years ago, I was working in the Hamilton area, driving an elderly Astra which was playing up. The engine kept cutting out and eventually it ground to a halt altogether. I put the hazard lights on, pulled on the bonnet release and got out to investigate. A car pulled up behind me, and as I was about to lift the bonnet, the female driver got out and started shouting at me.

"Have you just stopped here, or are you going to turn left" she said.  "I've broken down", I explained. "But your left hand flasher is flashing" says she. I tried to point out the right hand one was on as well, but she must have have been suffering from some kind of tunnel vision.. She very angrily got back into her car, pulled out and passed me, giving me such a filthy look, then turned left.

I had to drive a car, that cut out whenever you let it idle, through Perth, and the battery was fucked so it needed a jump start every time it died.

My own fault but it cut out at a set of lights. Sat with the hazards on while I get the battery kit out the boot.

Did the driver who came up behind me go into the right hand lane, through the lights and back into the left lane? Or did they drive up behind the car with hazards flashing and bonnet open and sit with the horn blazing?

Edited June 7, 2020 by RandomGuy.

[welshbairn]

On 31/05/2020 at 20:33, Gaz FFC said:

Recently bought a Juke and today I got an alert that my maps need updating and to contact Nissan.

How much am I likely to be robbed here?

For the record if it's a lot I've never used the fucker in 6 months and they can bolt

How old is the car? Think they're doing it free for newer ones. Got the same message on my 2012 Note but the dealer said they it didn't apply to mine. If it's the type with a sim card they ask for about £140 but you can it get it for under £30 on Ebay. Not worth it though, it's years out of date, you might as well stick with what you've got unless it's free. Ended up just using google maps last time I was lost, much more accurate and bang up to date. 

Edited June 7, 2020 by welshbairn

[beefybake]

On 24/05/2020 at 16:08, Thistle_do_nicely said:

Would guess A-P Jnr has a fairly old motor? You could well be Sir Loadsamoney and he's cutting about in a nice new Golf or something of course!

Should add I'm not trying to argue with that post as it's eminently sensible, but I wouldn't personally feel too concerned about driving mine (15 plate, <42000 miles on it) for a few weeks past the normal MOT date without getting it checked.

Taken to an extreme though if I was still cutting about in my first car (Ye Olde Ford Fiesta) and it had >100,000 miles on it or something then it'd be a different story and I'd be very uncomfortable driving it past its usual MOT date.

Could maybe stretch it a bit if you have an indestructible shitbox like certain older Volkswagen Jetta's or something like that, too.

edit: and of course now I think I've jinxed it so I'll probably get it done as normal, ha

My 2002 Golf TDI has just passed lunar ( 238855 ) mileage, and the MOT comes due on the 1st August.

I'll probably let the MOT extension occur, assuming that that arrangement is in still in place come then.

Why ?   I keep on top of the servicing, oil changes etc, identify advisory items and would-be fails prior

to the MOT's.  And don't let weird knocks and noises unattended.

So , if all seems fine, I'll go for the extension.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 7, 2020 by beefybake

[RandomGuy.]

4 minutes ago, beefybake said:

My 2002 Golf TDI has just passed lunar ( 238855 ) mileage, and the MOT comes due on the 1st August.

I'll probably let the MOT extension occur, assuming that that arrangement is in still in place come then.

Why ?   I keep on top of the servicing, oil changes etc, identify advisory items and would-be fails prior

to the MOT's.  And don't let weird knocks and noises unattended.

So , if all seems fine, I'll go for the extension.

Theres already talk the extension will end this month, but that might just be trade talk.

I'd be amazed if it was still on the go in August.

[beefybake]

2 hours ago, RandomGuy. said:

Theres already talk the extension will end this month, but that might just be trade talk.

I'd be amazed if it was still on the go in August.

From what I can see the talk does seem to be completely from car trade lobbyists.

The government just says nothing other than that the situation is under constant review.

Assuming there were no further significant flare ups of Covid-19  ( I happen to think there will be ),

I'd say that a more sensible , and graduated , ending to the MOT extension scheme would be ...

bit by bit reducing extensions from 6 months, to 4 months, to 3 months etc... as circumstances indicate.

 

 

[Gaz FFC]

On 07/06/2020 at 14:11, RandomGuy. said:

I had to drive a car, that cut out whenever you let it idle, through Perth, and the battery was fucked so it needed a jump start every time it died.

My own fault but it cut out at a set of lights. Sat with the hazards on while I get the battery kit out the boot.

Did the driver who came up behind me go into the right hand lane, through the lights and back into the left lane? Or did they drive up behind the car with hazards flashing and bonnet open and sit with the horn blazing?

It will soon be 7 years old.

I don't actually use the bugger but if it was free to update then I'd be in.

[supermik]

My astra van started conking out whilst driving last week. After 10 mins it would start again, go for a few miles then cut out again. It done it 7 times on the way home on Thursday. Diagnosed as a faulty crankshaft sensor. Got a replacement one yesterday. Bugger of a job to change it when I only had a couple of little axle stands. It was hidden at the back of the engine and impossible to see, I could only touch it with the top of my fingers. Managed to get the retaining bolt off with a small pocket ratchet set and swapped the sensor over. Trying to get the bolt back in was the biggest problem though, fingertips dont bend backwards and sideways. Took over an hour of blind working just to get the bolt lined up and refitted.

All good now and well worth the hassle as it could have been a bit pricey for a garage to do it.

[D.A.F.C]

Read somewhere if you car has issues starting then jump start and then remove the cables. If it cant restart then it's the battery if it starts then cuts out then alternator.
Is it this simple?
Dont have a problem but someone i know did.
Was thinking as well that I can remember checking one with a meter and it should jump up to 14v when the engine is running.
Could you see the same thing if you had lights on and they were dim but increase in brightness. This would mean the alternator is sending some power back to the battery?
I guess you could test the output of the alternator if you can access?

[bobbykdy]

48 minutes ago, D.A.F.C said:

Read somewhere if you car has issues starting then jump start and then remove the cables. If it cant restart then it's the battery if it starts then cuts out then alternator.
Is it this simple?
Dont have a problem but someone i know did.
Was thinking as well that I can remember checking one with a meter and it should jump up to 14v when the engine is running.
Could you see the same thing if you had lights on and they were dim but increase in brightness. This would mean the alternator is sending some power back to the battery?
I guess you could test the output of the alternator if you can access?

 

This will tell you which if either it is.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/am-tech-battery-alternator-tester-553777100?type=shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw57b3BRBlEiwA1ImytkCN2dPR7cDgNiN4X3BcmhwEA8XdZ4KImQV2Fdz9avnn8dfnuUTKaxoCgYQQAvD_BwE

 

 

[marty_j]

Hope someone can help?
I have had grinding noise in rear brake(s) for a few days
Booked into garage tomorrow
However today when driving brake pedal going to floor (spongy) air noise coming out of pedal. Turned round and went home
Went back out and pool of fluid at rear offside wheel.
Stated car again and brake faulty light on (although I’m shit at cars I kinda worked that out)
It’s going to garage tomorrow
Obviously its fucked but any ideas what it might be (calliper, brake line?)

[RandomGuy.]

2 minutes ago, marty_j said:

Hope someone can help?
I have had grinding noise in rear brake(s) for a few days
Booked into garage tomorrow
However today when driving brake pedal going to floor (spongy) air noise coming out of pedal. Turned round and went home
Went back out and pool of fluid at rear offside wheel.
Stated car again and brake faulty light on (although I’m shit at cars I kinda worked that out)
It’s going to garage tomorrow
Obviously its fucked but any ideas what it might be (calliper, brake line?)

 Warning light will be because your fluid level is low.

What kind of car do you have and is disks or drums on the back?

Sounds like you've worn the pads/shoes down so far that you've popped a piston out the caliper/cylinder, and the fluid is now just pouring out.

At a minimum it sounds like you'll need disks, pads and a caliper, or shoes and a cylinder.

[marty_j]

 Warning light will be because your fluid level is low.
What kind of car do you have and is disks or drums on the back?
Sounds like you've worn the pads/shoes down so far that you've popped a piston out the caliper/cylinder, and the fluid is now just pouring out.
At a minimum it sounds like you'll need disks, pads and a caliper, or shoes and a cylinder.

It’s a 56 plate Citroen C3 Desire
Aye it hasn’t been obviously grinding for a while I knew they needed done but MOT was due end of May and of course got 6 month’s leeway Otherwise would have been sorted then.
Car hardly doing any miles at minute either normally 1000 + a month
I’m an idiot
Is it a “big” job?

[RandomGuy.]

2 minutes ago, marty_j said:

It’s a 56 plate Citroen C3 Desire
Aye it hasn’t been obviously grinding for a while I knew they needed done but MOT was due end of May and of course got 6 month’s leeway Otherwise would have been sorted then.
Car hardly doing any miles at minute either normally 1000 + a month
I’m an idiot
Is it a “big” job?

Its an easy job to fix, if the brake fluid isn't completely emptied.

I think, and I'm just guessing, you have brake drums. So it should be relatively cheap as you should get away with just shoes and a cylinder. Should really just be one hours labour.

It would be more expensive, and a longer job, if you have disks and calipers.