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9 minutes ago, BFTD said:

Thinking about it, I assume there must be a time limit on the threads that pop up under 'Content I Posted In', as I haven't seen the BRALT in a very long time.

Does it still exist? Can't be arsed looking for it.

The original was liquidated. Try Braltco 5088

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No famnying about here. Just going to tag @Zen Archer (Raconteur)

My heating wont come on. Hot watee comes on no bither and fires the boiler, but the boiler seems to see no demand from the central heating/thermostat. Just sits there on standby. 

My suspicion is that a zone valve has failed, but I put the heating zone valve to manual open, and still the boiler wouldnt stay on even with the thermostat way up.

 

What the f**k? 

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Just now, Bairnardo said:

No famnying about here. Just going to tag @Zen Archer (Raconteur)

My heating wont come on. Hot watee comes on no bither and fires the boiler, but the boiler seems to see no demand from the central heating/thermostat. Just sits there on standby. 

My suspicion is that a zone valve has failed, but I put the heating zone valve to manual open, and still the boiler wouldnt stay on even with the thermostat way up.

 

What the f**k? 

I think your keyboard is fucked as well.

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15 minutes ago, Bairnardo said:

No famnying about here. Just going to tag @Zen Archer (Raconteur)

My heating wont come on. Hot watee comes on no bither and fires the boiler, but the boiler seems to see no demand from the central heating/thermostat. Just sits there on standby. 

My suspicion is that a zone valve has failed, but I put the heating zone valve to manual open, and still the boiler wouldnt stay on even with the thermostat way up.

 

What the f**k? 

Is it a combi boiler?

 

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17 minutes ago, Bairnardo said:

Na not a combi. A system boiler (i think is how you would call it). 

 

Pressurised system with a hot water tank etc

If it's a zone valve failure (sounds like it is), you can replace the synchron motor without changing the valve and obviously without draining the system.

See the source image

If you are confident you can do this yourself.

Make sure you know the make of valve and phone round before setting off, nothing worse than a wild goose chase.

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2 minutes ago, Zen Archer (Raconteur) said:

If it's a zone valve failure (sounds like it is), you can replace the synchron motor without changing the valve and obviously without draining the system.

See the source image

If you are confident you can do this yourself.

Make sure you know the make of valve and phone round before setting off, nothing worse than a wild goose chase.

Is it the case that the boiler needs to see the heating zone valve open limit made before it will fire? I cant figure out whats stopping the demand. I have heard of the limit switches failing on them. 

Its a honeywell valve. 

Il be hinest, British Gas homecare are likely to get rhe shout for this for a 50 quid excess, as the valves and motors look expensive and I am not fully confident I could do it tbh. 

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Just now, Bairnardo said:

Is it the case that the boiler needs to see the heating zone valve open limit made before it will fire? I cant figure out whats stopping the demand. I have heard of the limit switches failing on them. 

Its a honeywell valve. 

Il be hinest, British Gas homecare are likely to get rhe shout for this for a 50 quid excess, as the valves and motors look expensive and I am not fully confident I could do it tbh. 

When your timer turns on the heating it will signal the boiler & Pump to start and providing the room stat is calling for heat the zone valve will motor open.

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Just now, Zen Archer (Raconteur) said:

When your timer turns on the heating it will signal the boiler & Pump to start and providing the room stat is calling for heat the zone valve will motor open.

Ok, so the zone valve failing probably shouldnt prevent a run signal to the boiler then? 

Im puzzled here tbh. British Gas website not working to get the c***s out either. Seething here

 

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Just now, Bairnardo said:

Yeah one for hot water and one for radiators. 

Just narrow it down, if you have hot water and the pump is running that part is OK.

If the pump is running, manually opening the supposed faulty heating zone valve would let hot water into the heating system.

The lever on the valve will spring return when released and close, there is a hook you have to let the lever rest in to keep the valve manually open, have you noticed this?

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1 minute ago, Zen Archer (Raconteur) said:

Just narrow it down, if you have hot water and the pump is running that part is OK.

If the pump is running, manually opening the supposed faulty heating zone valve would let hot water into the heating system.

The lever on the valve will spring return when released and close, there is a hook you have to let the lever rest in to keep the valve manually open, have you noticed this?

I have done this. I could get heat into the radiators by doing this with the hot water demanding the boiler

 Then I switched the hot water off leaving the heating demand on, and the boiler shut off. 

 

Put the valve back to auto for now. 

Edited by Bairnardo
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Just now, Bairnardo said:

I have done this. I could get heat into the radiators by doing this with the hot water demanding the boiler

 Then I switched the how eater off leaving the heating demand on, and the boiler shut off. 

 

Put the valve back to auto for now. 

I think you need to get a guy in, something fishy going on.

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